When Che Became
A Market God
By V.B.Rawat
27 April, 2005
Countercurrents.org
When
I got invitation to visit Bolivia the first thing in mind was to hear
about Che Guevara. The longish flight timing gave me enough time to
read some work of Che as well as go through Sunday Financial Times which
has been carrying feature article on Che. It is interesting to notice
how the some of the commentators in the west perceives people like Che.
In fact, I had read many articles in Indian Press borrowed from the
Western press on Che questioning his popularity in the developing countries.
Therefore I was not surprised to read an analysis of a western journalist
mixing Ches work with that of Osama Bin Laden. These kind of comparison
are not isolatory in nature, as we have seen them in India. They are
not the work of an illiterate journalist but deliberate attempts to
malign honest individuals who tried to challenge the status quo. Hence,
if the upper caste journalists are fed up of every time mentioning Narendra
Modi then club some else with him so that your soul is satisfied.
In a newspaper
article one senior editor compared Narendra Modi with former prime minister
VP Singh. The upper caste mindset in Indian media and secular
circle is always evident that you make try to club together a person
who was responsible for killing of innocent lives in Gujarat with that
of an entirely political movement against the Mandal Commission recommendations
by the Hindu upper castes. I am not going to discuss here with this
issue of mandalisation but the fact is somewhere we are clubbing together
such issues and damaging the entire fabric.
The Financial Times
columnist said that he saw big portraits of Che and Osama in a bus in
the Lapaz, capital of Boliva. While I traveled a large part of Bolivia
including Santacruz and the places where Che was executed by the American
supervised forces, I was not fortunate enough to get such a picture
as depicted by our friend. Even if some ignorant souls have put Che
and Osama together, any good reader of history would never bracket them
together. For Che was definitely a revolutionary while the other fellow
a crude fundamentalist spreading hatred against non-believers and believers
of other faith. It was identical of a Pakistani columnist putting Bhagat
Singh and fundamentalists who attacked Indian parliament, together to
justify the highest platform of democracy.
Interestingly,
walking through the streets of Santacruz gives you disappointment as
how Bolivia which has spontaneously superb mountain range and vast track
of land has lost touch with its past. Not only the American control
their land and money but culture and mind as well. And that is why even
when certain people suggested that they had the best president of Bolivia,
a completely non political person, I was surprised and shocked not to
hear anything from the government quarters about the issue raised nearly
forty years ago by Che and his contemporaries. While the educated Bolivian
would like to leave their country for better jobs in the west particularly
United States, the countrys native inhabitants live in utterly
disillusioned circumstances. The wide gap between the cities and villages
is reflected once you step out of Santacruz where people and culture
has been deeply influenced in the Pepsi and coke and prostitution rampant
in the streets.
My disillusionment
with the political elite of Bolivia was because of their continuous
antipathy towards the marginalized. May be it is because of their new
found vocabulary of speaking international where they only talk of funds
and donations. Right from the president, to his ministers,
every one talked of tapping the vast natural resources in Bolivia.
Ruling political
elite as well as hugely funded NGOs ignores the issue of peoples
aspirations for which Che fought in Bolivia. A truly international person
who was born in Argentina, the very neighbor of Bolivia, and one of
the outstanding revolutionary of Cuba along with Fidel Castro, Che went
to Kongo and then made Bolivia his battle ground to fight against the
military regime added by the US government. So such kind of internationalism
is rare in todays world when person leave their comfort for serving
the human kind. Therefore, whatever the western media write about Che
and Cuba, the fact is that both are the most wanted things in Europe
and Latin America. Cuban Bars are very famous apart from Che and Fidel
Castro in every part of the world. People enjoy the spirit
of Cuba. So it was great occasion for me to be in a Cuban bar and enjoy
the dance there in Santa Cruz. And there I met many such youngsters
who feel Bolivians should change the status quo, opined Cecila, 26 is
a student of Social Sciences in Cochabamba, the third biggest city of
Bolivia after Lapaz, and Santa Cruz. As I mention about Che Guevara
and she become excited to discuss about him. She shows me her ring in
which, a small photograph of Che Guevara is fixed. I discuss with her
the current situation in her country. She is concerned about the American
domination in every day life in her country. So on the one hand big
companies have captured the small market of Bolivia, on the other side,
we have the Church which is playing a crucial role here in daily lives
of people and Cecila is very much against it. Do the church work
among the poor people. Oh, no she says. They dont work at
all except the rituals they follow. We need a revolution and
poor will be liberated, it is only Ches vision that Bolivia can
be an independent country.
As I embark upon
one of the most fascinating journey from Santa Cruz to Vallegrande,
the main town which has accessibility to bus and roads, the local Buses,
interestingly, tap the anti-American sentiments, in the films and laughs
and clap whenever there is a scene in which the native heroine of the
film befools a brown Saheb. I could understand the gaps between the
cities and the villages, between the elite class and the poor. The mountainous
terrains of Bolivia are simply superb. I did never see so many ranges
of mountains anywhere in the world, including Latin America where I
traveled earlier also. Such enormous diversity of nature has not yet
helped Bolivia. In a programme, the minister for forest in Bolivia said
that before the government gives land to the poor, he would ensure that
there is no deforestation. He said that he needs to protect Bolivias
vast natural resources. And the people got angry at his remark. An indigenous
woman got up and challenges this nation. The ministers
remark means that the poor people destroy the natural resources or forest.
Mr. Minister, first look into the work of the industries and corporations
which have been there with the blessings of the politicians, who have
destroyed the forest and not the native people. It is a blatant lie.
Ironically, Bolivia has more track of land then its entire population
but while the native people suffer from poverty, I could see the vast
fields of thousands of hectare where the feudal lords over farming.
It is through these lords that Bolivia is being governed. A country
unmindful of what happened a few years back in Argentina when the upsurge
against the policies of the government forced it to leave the palace.
After 7 hours tiring
journey from Santacruz, I reach Vallegrande, a small town surrounded
by mountains. At the town hall of it, we find a memorial of Che Guevara.
For the first time, after reaching Bolivia, I feel that people still
remember Che, though Cecilas words were like music for me when
she talked of revolution. In the evening as I reach my hotel, there
is hardly anyone who could understand English language. Still whatever
I could understand people remember Che as a revolutionary who sacrificed
his life for the cause of the masses. My trip is arranged for the place
La-iguvara where Che was executed on October 9th, 1967. This trip from
Vallegrande is about 4 hours by taxi. The terrain is difficult and dangerous
but beautiful and your eyes cannot close seeing such beautiful ranges.
For miles and miles there is no habitat and one can understand how Che
and his colleagues would have fought their battle here when even the
transportation was not that easy. The roads are bumpy and dusty and
my interpreter here was unable to control herself and fell ill when
passing through the zig-zag roads.
Che might be a
terrorist for the embedded journalists but he is a God for
others. As a radical humanist, I was shocked to see this ugly side of
marketing of Che in this historical village where just 15 families live
at the moment. This entire village is like a devotee of Che but what
is shocking is that people have erected an statue of Che sided with
a Cross. They consider him not just a revolutionary, but Gods
angel. Every house in this village adore Ches photograph and not
just photographs but have grand paintings on the walls of the entire
struggle of Che, which I have not seen anywhere in the third world.
We are habitual of worshipping individuals but not their struggle. There
are two museums in the village owned by private people. In one of the
museum which was earlier a school and where Che was killed by the CIA
sponsored military forces of Bolivian Army junta, there is a big painting
donated by an Argentine fan of Che. People throng to this place, see
the historical documentation of the great struggle to liberate masses.
Photographs of the young comrades are there along with Che and Fidel
Castro.
At about 100 meter
from this small house is another museum where the personal belongings
of Che have been kept by a local villager. Here we can see a number
of things related to Che. His gun, chair, cap and jacket apart from
his photographs with Fidel as well as their books on imperialism. There
is a nominal fee of 10 Boliviano for the entry. Yes, this village remind
me of the Dalit bustees in India which adorn Ambedkar. Everybody remember
Baba Saheb Ambedkar and consider him his emancipator but here this thing
was not that much visible. But the paintings of Ches struggle
against imperialism have been part of every house. For nearly 30 years,
this village became victim of vendetta by those in power. Villagers
were arrested just for their liaison with Che. I met Erma Roso who is
a native Bolivian and was one of the prominent villagers when Che had
arrived from Cuba to his mission here. Erma is about 60 years old and
has six children. A few months back her husband died for want of medicine
because there is no hospital here. Even taking a person in serious condition
to nearby Vallegrande takes almost four hours if you hire taxi otherwise
you have to walk. Said Erma, When Che arrived here in 1967, he
did not know any one or talk any one. During his period about 80 families
lived here but slowly they started moving out of village for the fear
of government action. People were also afraid of Guerillas as they did
not exactly about their activities. Erma, poor native Bolvian,
would serve Coffee to Che and prepare lunch for him. Though she may
not be a comrade or red flag holder, she considers Che a
true revolutionary and hero of the masses. If he were a winner,
things would have been different and peoples life here would have
changed but since he lost the battle, the village had to pay a price
for the same.
Erma was witness
to illegal killing of Che in the custody. The army had surrounded the
village. Some of the villagers had conspired along with the army and
they were passing the information of Che to the forces. After they were
caught and brought here in the school. In the night she heard noise
but no body dare to come out of their houses due to the military threat.
During the first five years we could not even utter his name. Everything
related to Che became blasphemous in Bolivia. His body was kept secretly
and disclosed after many days. Bu t the role of the ruling elite of
Bolivia was not only condemnable but the fact is that they did not face
any charge of following international norms of killing an international
political prisoner in the custody. His body was said to be buried at
a place with three other prisoners at the air force base in Vallegrande
which were found 30 years later. Now, there is an effort by the culture
ministry of Bolivia to give it a shape though in the name of developing
the Che Memorial, they have just a sign board about the historicity
of the place and nothing to offer those who come from different part
of the world and cry in this place.
Despite all odds,
Che is a market. A country like Bolivia which is among the poorest countries
in the world did not realize the potential of Che tourism. While government
of the past continue to ignore this legendary, people worshipped Che
for they consider that their country need a revolution and todays
political class does not have the guts to do so. So people of La-Higuera
celebrate Che martydom day in October with great fan fare. Unlike us
who cry on these dates, people in the village have festival, they sing
and dance and thank Che for the great work that he did. Che could not
have given much to this village but now the potential of Che tourism
has again given life to the villagers. Perhaps, the posters, painting
of Che in each house and all the places distinctly related to him, narrate
the story of profit of Che tourism. Even the hospital at Vallegrande
where Ches body was brought for postmortem is a tourist
spot. People come here and write on the walls their love for Che. Che
has been immensely popular with the youths of the world and that is
why they throng this place to visit him. They cry on reading his writings
and about his execution from the American supervised military.
But the biggest
irony comes in two forms. One religious and other market both against
whom Che spoke vehemently. None of us would have thought that Che would
become a Christian God in his village. He could never have dreamt that
the western market led forces would make use of his name for helping
the native people. Yes, truth is that both Care foundation (an international
catholic organization) as well as DFID ( British governments Deparment
for International Development) have planned to develop Che memorial
after they realized that Che has the potential to attract tourist to
this small country and bring revenue to its empty coffers. So, both
the organizations are now planning to start a package tour to La-Higuara
so that the money earn from these tour could be used to raise funds
for the native Bolivians. Interestingly, as I see Ches statue
along with Cross and as many of the villagers feel Che was some short
of God, I feel one day the Christian revivalist would use him as the
greatest warrior of the community. But one thing is sure,
the west cannot have double standard on a person like Che whose life
is an example of what true internationalism is and who cannot be clubbed
together with any other fanatic like Osama, but given the nature of
market, who knows tomorrow, the American start a package tour for the
friends and followers of Osama to Tora-bora or elsewhere to raise funds
for the poor Afghanis they killed in bombing.